Reference
Fabric guide
A field guide to common fabrics — what they're like to sew, what needle and thread they want, and what they're commonly used for.
Fabrics are categorized by fiber (what they're made of) and construction (how they're put together — woven, knit, etc.). Both matter for which needle and thread to choose.
Wovens
Wovens are made on a loom: warp threads running lengthwise, weft threads running crosswise. They don't stretch much (just a bit on the bias, the 45° diagonal). They cut cleanly and behave predictably.
| Fabric | Weight | Sews like | Needle | Use for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton lawn | Light | Crisp, behaves well | 70/10 universal | Blouses, lining, light dresses |
| Quilting cotton | Medium | Stable, easy to start on | 80/12 universal | Quilts, easy beginner garments |
| Linen | Medium | Frays a lot, wrinkles fast | 80/12 universal | Pants, summer shirts, napkins |
| Chambray | Medium | Like light denim | 80/12 universal | Shirts, light skirts |
| Denim | Heavy | Tough seams, breaks light needles | 90/14 or 100/16 jeans | Jeans, jackets, bags |
| Canvas / duck | Heavy | Very tough | 100/16 universal | Tote bags, aprons, upholstery |
| Silk | Light | Slippery, frays, shows pinholes | 70/10 microtex | Blouses, scarves, special-occasion |
| Chiffon | Very light | Slippery, hard to keep flat | 60/8 microtex | Drapey blouses, scarves |
| Wool suiting | Medium | Stable, presses beautifully | 80/12 universal | Tailored garments, blazers |
Knits
Knits are looped fabric — like a sweater, but finer. They stretch. They roll at the cut edges. They demand a ballpoint or stretch needle and a zigzag (or stretch) stitch so seams can give with the fabric.
| Fabric | Stretch | Sews like | Needle | Use for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jersey | Moderate (2-way) | Curls at edges; needs ballpoint | 80/12 ballpoint | T-shirts, light dresses |
| Interlock | Light (2-way) | More stable than jersey | 80/12 ballpoint | Beginner-friendly knit garments |
| Rib knit | Heavy (4-way) | Stretches and recovers | 80/12 ballpoint | Necklines, cuffs, fitted tops |
| Lycra / spandex | Heavy (4-way) | Slippery, very stretchy | 75/11 stretch | Swimwear, athletic, leggings |
| Sweater knit | Moderate | Bulky, frays at edges | 80/12 ballpoint | Sweaters, cozy cardigans |
Choosing fabric for your first projects
If you're learning, pick stable medium-weight wovens for everything until you're comfortable: quilting cotton, linen, chambray. They don't shift, don't fray uncontrollably, and don't require a ballpoint needle.
After your first 3–4 projects on wovens, try a knit. Switch to a ballpoint needle and use a narrow zigzag for seams.
Pre-wash everything
Wash and dry your fabric before cutting. Most natural fibers shrink slightly on first wash. If you make a perfectly-fitted shirt out of un-washed cotton, the shirt will be 4% smaller the first time you launder it. Pre-washing prevents the surprise.
Wash in the way you'll wash the finished garment — hot/warm/cold, machine or hand. Synthetic fabrics (polyester, nylon) don't shrink and don't need pre-washing for that reason, but a wash removes manufacturing finishes that can affect the needle's smoothness through the fabric.