Reference
Thread guide
Thread choice affects strength, sheen, stretch, and how cleanly the stitches sit in the fabric. For 95% of beginner projects, all-purpose polyester is the right answer.
The four threads worth knowing
| Thread | What it's made of | Use for | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| All-purpose polyester | 100% polyester | Most projects — garments, home dec, mending | Strong, slight stretch, doesn't shrink, takes dye well |
| Cotton | 100% mercerized cotton | Quilting (where the seam should "give" the same as the fabric) | No stretch — can snap on stretchy fabric |
| Heavy-duty / topstitching | Polyester or poly-wrapped | Visible topstitching on jeans, bags, upholstery; jean rivets | Use a topstitch needle (large eye) |
| Silk | 100% silk | Sewing on silk fabric (matches stretch and sheen), tailoring, basting | Expensive; almost invisible when pressed |
Top thread and bobbin thread
Use the same thread for top and bobbin. Mixing types (e.g., polyester top + cotton bobbin) creates a tension mismatch that looks fine on the surface but unravels at the seam over time.
The one exception: when basting (long temporary stitches), some people use a fine silk thread in the bobbin so it slips out easily when removed. For all permanent sewing, match.
Thread weight (the numbers)
Thread spools carry a number like 50 wt or 30 wt. Lower = thicker. The most common weights:
- 40 wt / 50 wt — standard all-purpose, what you'll use for almost everything
- 30 wt — thicker, used for visible topstitching
- 60 wt — very fine, used for piecing in quilting and for sewing delicate fabrics
If a spool just says "all-purpose," it's somewhere in the 40–50 wt range.
Color matching
- Match the dominant color of your fabric. If your fabric is multicolored, choose the color you want the least visible.
- When unsure, go one shade darker. A slightly darker thread blends into shadows; a slightly lighter thread reads as a contrast line.
- For topstitching, contrast is fine and often intentional — gold thread on dark denim is a classic.
What to keep on hand
The minimum useful collection for a beginner:
- One spool of white polyester all-purpose — won't match everything, but works for tests and basting
- One spool of black polyester all-purpose — covers most darks
- Whatever color matches your current project
That's it. Build up specific colors as projects demand. You don't need a wall of spools to get started.