Stitch
Straight stitch
The single most important stitch — used for seams, topstitching, and almost all garment construction. If you only ever learn one stitch, this is it.
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What it is
The needle moves up and down in one place; the feed dogs advance the fabric a small amount between each puncture. The top thread interlocks with the bobbin thread inside the fabric, creating an evenly-spaced line of identical stitches on both sides.
When to use it
- Construction seams — joining two pieces of fabric edge-to-edge
- Topstitching — a decorative or reinforcing line of stitching visible on the outside of a garment
- Hems — finishing the bottom edge of pants, skirts, sleeves
- Anything where the fabric doesn't need to stretch
How to start and end
Always backstitch at the beginning and end of a seam to lock the thread. Sew forward 3–4 stitches, press the reverse lever (or button) and sew backward over the same stitches, then forward again to continue. Do the same when finishing.
Without backstitching, the seam will unravel from either end the first time it's stressed.
Stitch length, in practice
- 2.5 mm is the default for almost everything
- 2.0 mm for stronger seams (more stitches per inch = stronger)
- 3.5–4.0 mm for topstitching on heavy fabric, where a longer stitch looks more proportional
- 4.0–5.0 mm for basting — long stitches you'll remove later
Common mistakes
- Not backstitching. First seam to fail.
- Forcing the fabric. Let the feed dogs move it. Your hands guide; they don't pull. Pulling stretches the fabric and bends needles.
- Pivoting at a corner with the needle up. The fabric shifts as you turn. Always: stop, lower the needle into the fabric (turn the handwheel toward you), lift the presser foot, pivot, lower the foot, continue.